Endings

My last post regarding island life talked about a new beginning. Now I am beginning to learn about endings.

November 6th, 2011. That’s the finish line. When I joined the Peace Corps, I dreamed ahead to the distant future, a time far off in the year 2011 and the age of 26. Lo and behold I am 26 and it is 2011. T minus 10 months to go.

It’s strange how 10 months can feel both solid, immovable, forever and like it could disappear in a blink.

October 15th, 2010. Another finish line none of us were prepared for.

And it’s strange how the past, which was so heavily present at the time, is now to be looked back upon and recounted for you today. Sitting down now, Tuesday January 25th at 10:20 am, I stare at my tumbling laundry hoping it will tell me where to begin. But, I smile as I remind myself, I’ve already begun and I’m well on my way. And I guess that’s where I started the last post. And so that’s where I will pick up, grateful that I can.

At the beginning of October I returned to Yap for a resource trip where I resupplied on many levels. There was shopping for the basics (mosquito coils, oatmeal, TP) and utilizing communication with friends and family thousands of miles away. Then there were also the joys and wonders of my host family and friends here on Yap, plus the adventure of becoming SCUBA certified. Birthday celebrations, ice cream indulgences, reconnecting and catching up – simple things that sustain and rejuvenate me to return to island life.

Back on Fedreay, life fell back into place that first week with lesson planning, talk story, and starting weaving projects. Plus I was delighted to hear the ship was returning to the island by the end of the week, bringing with it my dear friend Gita and news of her life on Fais over the last few months.

Normally the ship anchors for hours off the island while it delivers its services and supplies. Yet since we expected it, we got the opposite; Gita and I had maybe half an hour to catch up as she showered at my house and “freshened up” from the ship (if you’ve ever traveled on the H-1 you’ll understand the use of quotation marks). So much life to share in such a short space of time. And we had no idea that so much of life could change so totally so quickly.

The next day our dear friend Andy Buth drowned off the shores of Fais Island.

Many people didn’t know who he was, perhaps except as the tall white guy with nipple rings who brought his own spears and knives when he came out on the Voyager in April. In Woleai he was known as the guy who “goes where the fish have seen no man.” To me, he was a new friend. To Gita, he was a life-long friend and fellow adventurer in life and love. What more can I say than the truth -

His life was an adventure, and he died happy and in love.

Andy, may you continue to soar and explore. Thank you for sharing your time with us. We love you and will think of you often while continuing the adventure. Rest in a wild, free, and open peace Andy.

Double Dipping

I was asked by a student at my old school to reflect on my Peace Corps service. Since I'm egregiously behind on updates, I figured this would do for a post :-)


1. What work are you doing right now with the Peace Corps?

I am currently a volunteer in the Federated States of Micronesia. I'm in my second year serving on a small outer island in the island state of Yap (my current island is called Federai, Ulithi. Previously I was on Falalius, Woleai). The Peace Corps project plan in the FSM focuses on TESOL and Community Development. Personally that means I am teaching the upper grades in my local elementary school as well as creating projects with the community that address certain needs. I'm working on developing a sustainable waste management system that fosters environmental stewardship, communal responsibility, and creativity.


2. What made you decide to do volunteer work with the peace corps?

Even while I was at Whitworth I knew that I wanted to do some kind of service work abroad for a long period of time. Peace Corps is a great financially viable way to do this. It's two years of service work, plus training, that I don't have to pay for out of pocket. I'm given a small stipend that allows me adequate food, shelter, and other basic needs. Moreover, I have the wonderful opportunity to live in and explore another culture and really become part of the local community. I eat fish and taro, I wear lavalavas (and no shirt!), I weave and I cook and I speak the local language. I am used to palm trees and rolling waves and rainbow fish and clear water. My service is my reality; this tiny speck of land in the great big Pacific ocean is my whole world. Peace Corps allows for time and place to seep into me as I seep into my service.

3. How has your experience at Whitworth shaped, helped or impacted your work as a volunteer?

Whitworth focuses on service. Service is at the core of the Peace Corps. The interesting twist is that I am a non-Christian who attended a Christian institution. At the center of Whitworth's service is Christ. At the center of my service is my personal philosophy discovered and honed during my four years in Whitworth's Philosophy program. It was also during these four years that I honed my appreciation for community and support, especially in light of common or core differences. During my time at Whitworth I developed deep relationships with people whose values or beliefs deeply differed from my own. And yet it was (and still is) in those relationships that the most meaning and growth happened. So it is during my time in the Peace Corps, where I find myself literally as far from my own milieu as possible. The distances I've come and the differences I've encountered only strengthen the similarities we find together, where sometimes the only important commonality is laughter or food.

4. How have your experiences so far impacted your life and worldview?

In a sense the whole point of two years of service abroad is to change one's worldview as literally and physically possible. In my case it is total immersion. I am on a tiny tiny tiny (I don't think most people can even conceive of it) island in the ocean hundreds of miles from any substantial land mass. I have no phone. No Internet. Power comes from the sun. Water comes from the sky. Food comes from the sea. In a very real way, I am out there totally on my own. And yet I'm not alone. Peace Corps for me is people. It's relationship. It's the community on my island (less than 100 people). It's my students (less than 20). It's my host family. Time becomes a very strange concept when you join the Peace Corps, join a new community and culture and language, and then are simply there. There has never been a better way to learn the lesson of being present than when you're a PCV on a tiny island in the big blue ocean! And yet time passes. The people around me change. The island changes. I change. The world's longest hour can somehow turn itself into a month passed, then two. Then I find myself more than a year in and less than a year to go, and time, which has seemingly just rushed passed me, slips on just as slowly, just as quickly as ever. That's the only way to mark change, impact, experience, with subtlety and awareness, with gratitude for the past and openness towards the future. And that is for me, in a coconut shell, what I've learned thus far.

As you can see, I'm very tangential and like to sway between topics. If you have any more questions or need clarifications (I'm sure you have no doubt that I'm a PH major after all my abstractions), please let me know. I'm always happy to hear from friends.

Bolivia!

As part of a wonderful travel Christmas present/blessing from my family, I got to visit my dear bossom friend Katie in Bolivia for a week. Below is a smattering of pictures. There are lots more fun ones on Facebook should you have access and like to take a peek :-)

Videos

Here are a few belated videos from my time throughout my service. I hope a.) they are rather self explanatory and/or enjoyable and b.) that they work!

Half Way Through and A New Beginning...

One year down in my Peace Corps experience and somehow I'm back at the beginning again. Since I left in July, I've said hello to my new community in Ulithi and goodbye to my old home in Woleai. Both experiences were positive yet challenging in their own ways, and it's been interesting to transition from one island home to another.

I fell in love with my new island community on Federai from the get-go. It's a very long, skinny island with open, friendly people. Long beaches line the shore and the water is invisibly clear. I'm staying with William and Andresa, two very kind and amiable people. We live right by the school and I'm staying in the coziest little local hut that was built by a previous PCV and my host brother, Frankie (who looks like a professional heavy weight boxer).


My local hut on Federai - home sweet home!


Inside my hut at night :-)

I have found the language to be more difficult that I anticipated, but fortunately I can get by speaking English and listening to Ulithian. This made me realize what a gift a common language is because it allows room for me to really express myself and show my personality. I feel like I'm known for who I am on Federai, and this feeling is very grounding and helps energize me for the rest of my service.

Another great part of feeling energized is my daily routine of running to the end of the island in the evening and then jumping into the ocean with my 9 year old friend Nick during the sunset. It's times like these when the phrase "island paradise" floats across the brain for some reason :-)


Sunset on Federai


A weird thing happens in Federai. At night, the mosquitoes go away. That means they run rampant from sunrise to sunset, but when the moon comes out, we on Federai are blessed with cool, buzz-free night air.


The apple tree we sit under at night to talk story

My favorite way of enjoying this phenomenon is to sit out with my host mother and father by the glow of our solar powered light. During these talk-story sessions, I get to share about who I am and the places I come from. We love to laugh and joke about funny stories, foods, customs. One of my favorite times was when I told my host mother when I owned a motorcycle. She was saying she couldn't picture me on one, and I said it wasn't like I was wearing a lavalava :-)

Speaking of lavalavas, I have successfully completed my first full lavalava, winding and weaving it from scratch, so to say :-) It was fun to sit in the women's house with Alyssa "cheating" as she coached me in English, then to laugh and joke with my host mom as she taught me to weave on the "pop," or loom, in my house. It's far from perfect, but as it was my "learning lavalava" intended for my Grannie, I think it's just swell. Besides, I remember learning about how certain Native American tribes purposefully incorporated flaws into their crafts so as to not offend the gods by feigning perfection. Let's just say no gods were offended during the making of this lavalava. I look forward to much more weaving in the future.


Host mom Andresa and friend Joanna helping set up my first lavalava!

At the end of August, I hopped on the state ship out to Woleai. It was a great summer time adventure upon the waves shared with Gita and two other PCVs who took the ship all the way to Satawal and back. It was difficult yet good to have time to say goodbye to Falalius.


My final boat ride from Falalius with all my stuff and yes, that is a pig :-)


My final farewell to maweshe Ashley on Falalius

There were many reasons for me to stay, and many reasons for me to go. One of the saddest parts was discovering that, I'm sad to report, Tiny the Turtle passed away. She was well-loved in her short life, an unforgetable Christmas gift and a delightful island companion. All in all, I'm very thankful for my time spent in Woleai.

Coming back to Federai I found myself in the throws of teaching full-time, a plight I blame on my genes (thanks four generations of teaching behind me!). On the first day of school we had a Back To School Party. I was just sitting on the side, minding my own business, when all of a sudden I noticed all of the students huddled together secretively and staring at me. Then they attacked me - with floral maremares, that is! Each student had made me a lei to welcome me to the school and the community. I could feel the weight of their welcome as my head towered and teetered with the most beautiful tropical flowers. I'm very blessed to be part of this community!


Being buried by maremares - one from each student!

Three cheers for my island life partner Alyssa and all the other M75 PCVs in Yap! Alyssa is officially done with her time in Federai and while I'm sad to see her go, I'm happy and excited for her future adventures and all of her "first impressions" to come. My two weeks back on Yap have been delightful and donzerly in every way. I'm healthy, happy, and excited for the future. I will come back to Yap in December before heading to Pohnpei for Mid-Service Training (MST). After MST, my travel plans look a little something like this:
Portland, Maine Dec. 19-22
Colorado Dec. 22-Jan 4
Bolivia Jan. 4-12 Then back to Yap!

In recent, exciting news, I'm getting scuba certified! I started at the beginning of the week and it's been an amazing experience that I'm so thankful for. I'll never forget my first open water dives and being brought into a whole new world :-)

That's all the time I have now for this little update. Please be in touch and let me know how you are and what adventures you are having. Mail is come and go in Federai, but I will do my best to keep in touch.

And lastly, a very special Happy Birthday today to Andrew!!

Be well! Whee! emily

If you wait till the last minute...

A fellow traveler and friend once told me, "If you wait till the last minute, it'll only take a minute!" I'm keeping this in mind as I write this update.

As it stands, I've been back on Yap Proper since the last weeks of May - almost two months. And in those two months, I've had three days of training.

In the meanwhile, a significant change came about when the Peace Corps told the three of us Volunteers in Woleai that, due to the shabby state of the runway and a rescinded emergency contract with the local plane, we are no longer able to serve in our sites.

At the time there was some hope that the runway situation would miraculously improve, but it has become evident that the solution lies in part of the problem; no ship has been able to go out to Woleai in order to deliver the materials or workers for the improvements. As it seems to me, this is an instance of stunted potential as far as sustaining and improving life in the outer islands of Yap. There is funding, there is community and government support, and there is want, need, and drive. But there is a missing infrastructure upon which to hinge the existing systems that would address this transportation problem. From what I've seen and heard, the runway will indeed be patched up and improved soon, just not soon enough for us to remain at our sites. It seems as though we were only one ship away from being allowed to stay, and that's difficult to deal with. If only...If only the state ship hadn't been indefinitely delayed, then we'd be able to fix the runway and Porter, Gita, and I could stay in our sites. If only...

And so here I am, in the last several minutes (read: days) before I leave on Friday for my new site - Federai, Ulithi. (Said: Fed-er-eye, You-lith-ee)

Logistically speaking, I shall be taking a plane to Falalop, Ulithi and then catching a boat across the lagoon to Federai. I'll meet my new host family and community while settling into my new digs. Then, whenever the state ship is finally fit to leave, I'll hop on it from Federai out to Woleai. In the time it takes for the ship to loop around the eastern outer islands, I'll have to say goodbye to my host family, community, digs, and turtle on Falalius. Then back on the ship to be deposited again at my new site. Now let me tell you a little more about Federai.

On Federai, I will continue to be teaching in the local school, which is about the same size as my school on Falalius. The condition of the school is much less dilapidated, and there is a beautiful library already in place. At least initially, I'll be living with William, the principal, and his wife, Andresa, whom I'm told is a "shooabuuto chille," or small woman. Ulithian, the local language, is similar to Woleaian but a different dialect, and in general I should be able to also communicate more in English if I need.

Federai has power (usually) as well as (occasional) cell phone access. Across the lagoon on Falalop there is also internet (at times). There are (up to) two planes a week to Ulithi that deliver supplies, as well as mail to the local post office.

Speaking of mail...I will technically have a new address, but I can still get mail from the PC PO Box. The important thing is to note my change of site in the address so my mail doesn't get sent to Woleai - i.e. Emily, Federai instead of Emily, Falalius. (All in all, there's not much need for us to worry about this as I've spoken to the lovely women at the local PO and they know the low down to help sort things out.) So here are my two viable addresses should you ever have the inkling to write - pick whichever suits your fancy:

Emily Hurianek, Peace Corps Volunteer
Ulithi Post Office
Federai Island
Yap, FM 96943

Emily Hurianek, PCV Federai
PO Box 190
Colonia, Yap FM 96943

I feel almost as though the Fellowship of the Ring of Woleaian Islands has begun to break. Gita left Friday night for her new site on Fais (a rocky outer island in Yap past Ulithi), and Porter is sorting out how to get to his new site (Hoak Island) in the state of Chuuk. It will be very difficult to envision a future PC experience without my two companions in it. To help ease the transition is the fact that Alyssa, Federai's current PCV, will be finishing up her service sometime this fall and so we'll have some overlap. I met Alyssa on Federai in April on a stop-over to Woleai, plus we've gotten to know each other much better while she was here for a few weeks before her COS (Close of Service Conference). She's a firecracker (literally - she made her 'debut' on the 4th of July) from Wisconsin and a fellow explorer and weaver. I'm glad to have her as a friend at the beginning of this new adventure.

And now is the part of the blog post where I begin to list and ramble randomly with no sense of cohesion...much like the messages I leave on voicemails, actually. Anyway...

Speaking of voicemails (nice transition, huh? :-P)...I will still have my satellite phone that I will be checking daily and can receive mini-messages that way. I cannot, however, use the satphone to respond. Which is why I'm very excited that I also have a local cell phone. Signal and phone-card permitting, I will be able to actually communicate WITH you!

As far as where this new adventure will take me, I can't be sure. But I am optimistic, hopeful, and excited. I am hoping to take a resource trip back to Yap sometime this fall. Next along the path is Mid-Service Training, which will take place on Pohnpei in December (very likely during my birthday, actually). AND THEN! Oh, I'm so excited, my WONDERFUL parents have concocted the most fantastic travel itinerary for me. In one fell swoop, I will go from the tropics to mid-winter Maine, then dip down to Bolivia for a visit with my kindred spirit Katie, and finally fly back up to Colorado for Christmas and New Year's with the family. Let's just say there are twinkly lights on my horizon, and I love it.

As always, thank you for your love and support. This continues to be a dynamic adventure for me on many levels and I am blessed by the experiences I've had and the people I've met. I'm happy to share my adventure with you and would love to hear about yours. Thank you.

Allow me to catch you up...

Let’s go Marty McFly. If you were to step in the Delorean and time travel back to the last few weeks in May, you would have found me in the final days of my first school year at Falalius Community School, caught up in the throws of graduation preparations. I would be practicing about ten local dances to perform with my students on the big day and brainstorming my speech (in Woleaian) to my four graduating 8th graders. If you asked me, I would have told you that I'd be arriving in Yap for In-Service Training II around the beginning of June and no, I have never seen a Cheeze-It on my island, thank you very much.

Oh, how little did I (do I ever?) know!? My last scheduled day of class was Friday, May 21st and on Thursday, May 20, I was all set to collect my students' final projects and not at all worried about calculating grades - after all, I'd have plenty of time before I would be leaving to schlog through grades. I was confident in this conviction because, if anywhere, it is on a tiny island in the middle of a big ocean that you should literally be able to see your means of transportation coming for miles.

Nope.

Not only was I blindsided with the news that I'd be leaving in less than a day on a patrol boat with none other than the President of the FSM, but this news was fantastically preceded by an honest-to-goodness boat-load of Cheeze-Its arriving on my island!

In one mad dash, I managed to finish my grades, pack, and ant-proof my mountains of food with enough time to catch the high school graduation on Falalop Friday morning. President Mani Mori’s address to the graduating seniors? “Don’t get married and be humble. Oh, and your island may be 60 ft. under water soon. Congratulations!”

Leaving Woleai on the 01 Patrol Boat was every second an adventure. Taking a little inflatable raft up to the boat, Porter was instructed to climb the ladder while Gita and I, the only females taking the trip, were hoisted aboard – whee! Then, within minutes, we were given mail – always a delightful treat – as we sailed passed the back side of Falalius. A number of my students were there waving us farewell with giant banana and coconut leaves. From a distance they reminded me of Tiny and her flippers flapping away to bid us farewell. The ship honked its horn and we were out to sea.

Now, normally going out to sea from Woleai entails many days of bland open ocean and crackers. This adventure, however, was marked by receiving fresh fruit and cold Fantas on the way to the W.C., pork and coconut crab for dinner, eggs and toast for breakfast. In the evening we chatted with President Mori about life in Woleai and climate change. We slept in cozy bunks in an air-conditioned room (thanks to our school area supervisor, Stan, essentially our boss, for insisting we kick him out!). On the quiet deck Porter and I spotted any number of creatures and beasts in the clouds as we had a soul-heartening conversation in the morning. Gita and I reverted to seventh grade girls as we giggled our way through New Moon in the afternoon. All the while, I shamelessly made friends with all the crew members so as to secure rides in the future – “hey, if you’re ever in this neck of the ocean again…” Yap appeared on the horizon and as wonderful as each moment was on the ship, it was made even better for how short the voyage was! We arrived Saturday evening, in little more than a single day's time. Needless to say, I loved every second of this adventure!

Being back on Yap, it's always delightful to spend time with the other PCVs and my host family here. My brothers are all doing well - they have finished their school year and Jimmy (aka Cobrino – I’m Cobrina) graduated from Yap SDA High School - we are all very proud of him. Summer time with my host family includes watching MANY movies, taking walks at dusk with Gita, and a little something I like to call Night Court, wherein I am the judge, the twins are attorneys, and any number of defendants, plaintiffs, and witnesses are on hand. In the last case we tried, Lin was charging his friend Nathan with the murder of his dog. Riveting.

The weekend before training began, the three of us Woleai Volunteers caught wind of a rumor about the Peace Corps closing our sites in Woleai. The new Program and Training Officer flew in from Pohnpei to meet with us and over pizza that Wednesday she dealt the blow. On account of recent developments, or rather deteriorations, in the “safety and security situation” in Woleai, we will not be allowed to return permanently to our sites barring a miracle. Basically, PMA, the airline that had a contractual agreement with the Peace Corps, has since rescinded their agreement in writing and can no longer guarantee to fly to Woleai of emergency on account of the state of the runway.

I now have one of the worst track records with the Peace Corps. Twice the Peace Corps has come to me saying it’s time to go back to Woleai and I said, in effect, “Well, what if I stay?” Now that I want to go back, wouldn’t you know it, the Peace Corps is saying to me, “nope, now you stay.” This has been a very challenging and dynamic change of circumstances. It’s difficult for me to wrap my brain around this decision and even harder for me to grapple with what my role in this whole situation is. I did not join the Peace Corps to be told that the answers to a key problem facing my community are out of my hands and not to push. “Emily, you’re not an engineer, let it go.” (Well, I’m not a teacher either, but here I am.)

Moving on.

So when it comes down to it, Porter, Gita and I have been cleared to return to Woleai to finish out the summer. We’re planning on leaving on the next ship, which has just been bumped back from the 18th to the end of June. We’ll have time to spend in our communities and try to bring about some sense of closure, however conflicted it may be. Then we shall pack up and leave Woleai on the next ship (August-ish). Our futures after that point are still around the bend, but the Peace Corps has allowed us to explore many options for ourselves. Right now I am exploring a couple possible placements both within the Ulithi Atoll and on Yap Proper.

At present, I am waiting to hear back from PC Pohnpei and very much in limbo as to my future as a PCV. Well, it is what it is and what will be will be good.

And with that in mind, thank you for all the support and goodness that I receive from you. I’ll be in touch soon, and in the meantime, drop me a line and let me know how you are – what is your life like and what goodness lies around the bend in your path?