(Written mid-April...)
I have been back on Falalus for just over a week now but time seems to expand here, so it has felt much longer (maybe it’s because being on the ship for a week seems to suck up time!). Plus, things are going well. One of the biggest differences for me here so far (other than not being miserable with a resident parasite in my gut) is that I’m following my dear, wise friend Barbara’s advice to be an ‘observer,’ which she said means letting go of the outcome. To me this means simply being present (which is made ever so much easier on an island where there really isn’t much choice!). It also means not letting what might/could/should/may/can be to crush or stifle what is.
And so I’m trying to let go. I’m trying to let go of the outcomes of this whole ‘Peace Corps Experience.’ I’m especially trying to let go of the outcomes of these next 2-3 months before the next training. Shoot, I’m even trying to let go of how my island cooking concoctions turn out! (To date, the tahini-less hummus was fabulous, the corn meal mush was satisfactory, and the polenta scrumptious.)
Of course, the task of letting go might be made much easier with some divine stroke of clarity or omniscience as to how the present will unfold and expand into the future. But then again, there’s something to be said for the Bend in the Road and all that lies beyond. Leaves plenty scope for the imagination, as my dear friend Anne Shirley would say. Besides, I’m finding that sometimes consciously letting go can be easier than unconsciously holding on. Some eggs can crack themselves if we let them ;-P
Each evening at sunset I have been heading to the ‘end of the island’ to ‘checkii yaai phone,’ or check my new satellite phone for messages (which works wonderfully so far! THANK YOU to everyone who has sent me messages so far, it really does make me feel connected and I’m sending you positive energy back!). Faalimaase, the name of where I go, is on the western side of the island. Everyone else thinks it’s haunted, so I pretty much get it to myself, which is a rare occurrence on this highly communal island. Being alone and in such an idyllic setting, I am able to have a daily check-in – with my friends/family via satphone, with my body via yoga, and with my heart via meditation. As I arose from a savassana the other day, I simply had to laugh at how surreal it is to find myself where I am! It’s moments like these that help me sink into the present.
Speaking of sinking, the island might be sinking – the beach is much steeper and narrower than before – or it might just be seasonal. Whatever the case, it makes it easier for me to run in the morning while it’s still dark (I have to run then when no one can see me) because there’s now a clear path at the top of the beach. (Special thanks to Uncle Tim for the great headlamp that a.) stays in place and b.) has great range so I don’t end up running into a coconut tree )
In my time on Yap I received a flabbergasting outpouring of support and supplies, and I can never be grateful enough! I have food galore, teaching resources, books, candles, yarn, you name it! I even have three choices of water filtration systems to choose from to help me stay healthy (plus lots of traditional and modern remedies). The water filter I’m using now is just about the coolest thing ever – it’s called the SteriPen (and comes from Blue Hill, Maine of all places!). It’s basically a UV light wand that I use to stir the water for about a minute and it takes care of all the germies! Neato!
My language skills continue to improve bit by bit, and the kids are learning English bit by bit. For instance, some of the kids now say ‘hi,’ which is something I had to teach them (there’s no greeting in this language other than “buutogo mwongoo,” or “come eat”). Anyway, it may seem small, but it’s good for my soul. I need to be careful, though, because I today I somehow found myself in the thick of an all-out discussion of all the English swear words my 7th and 8th graders know (and I may have unintentionally taught them some, I’m not gonna lie). Here’s how it went down. I began the class with a warm-up activity explaining the important difference between the letters P and B (thanks to PCV Mike for the example). Take, for instance, the following sentences – “I eat crab” and “I eat crap.” One letter makes a big difference in what you say, but most of the kids have trouble pronouncing the difference. In order for this example to really hit home, however, the kids needed to know what ‘crap’ meant…which led to a discussion of how “poop” was the good way to say it, “crap” was in the middle of the field, and “sh*t” was at the bottom of the ladder. This little discussion snowballed and soon I found myself throwing out all propriety and cultural norms in a full-steam-ahead discussion of “kepate ngawe,” or bad words. We covered everything from expletives and derogative terms for women to racial slurs and sexuality. Oy vey! I did my best to maintain a thread of integrity and pushed the importance of understanding and comprehending the words you use so as to not hurt people intentionally or unintentionally. One of the best/most awkward parts was that my principal/co-teacher walked into the classroom late in the heat of the discussion. He looked at the board, I sputtered out some explanation/apology, saying that maybe this wasn’t the best lesson for us to team-teach, and he left before even sitting down! It was one of those classic moments and I hope my students appreciated it as much as I did :-)
And with that yarn, it’s time I wrapped this update up. Thank you, as ever, for your love and support.
Whee! Emily
PS – Tiny is ever so much bigger than I expected, but she still likes to ride on my shoulder :-) She sends her love, too!

Hi, this is Emily's Mom letting you know that, after a five day boat trip and a day's visit with Porter and Gita, Emily made it back to Falalus (on April 8.) She spent at least two days unpacking and wants to thank everybody for the amazing gifts and communication and support you gave her. Special thanks to those who have already emailed her SAT phone. Emily can't use her phone to respond (we'll have to wait for her letters) but she loves hearing from you.
This blog post goes out to my wonderful parents, whose support is ample and just so darn well timed. We are in the midst of Tropical Depression 02-W, soon to be upgraded to a tropical storm, and to boot, I have a nasty head cold. (Which seems to be the trend, actually - the two times I've been sick on Yap we've had tropical storms, so I'll take the blame. Sorry, Yap). Anywho, wouldn't you know it, with it storming outside and me feeling like my head's in a cloud, I got a package from the folks yesterday with chocolate, soup, and movies. As my friend Laura said, it's like they knew! ('Cause they do, 'cause they're great like that and I love 'em.)
In other news, I've been thoroughly enjoying my time here on Yap as it's coming to a close. The ship is announced to set sail on April 2nd (mind you, transportation dates in Yap are never set in stone...even stone money...haha, bad joke...I'll blame it on the sinuses interfering w/ the normal pathways of wit and genius in my brilliant brain...except not quite). So I've got a couple of more weeks to prepare myself for heading back out to Falalus and reuniting w/ my baby turtle, students, and community. It'll be good.
Aside from the present head cold (darn my Wellness Formula being on Falalus!), I'm very happy to report that I feel hearty, healthy, and happy. This time I've had here on Yap has been a blessing in many ways that just keep unfolding. As always, I am ever grateful for your support and friendship.
Gai sa gashigeshige gemaase, remaweshe!
Cobrina LeHasugulmal
aka emily :-)
PS - a huge and hearty congratulations to Lo and her St. Patty's Day Baby! Yay!
*Habele. I have received many requests from friends and family on how they can support my work as a teacher here in the Outer Islands of Yap. Check out these websites for Habele, an organization striving to provide Outer Island students with educational opportunities.
http://www.habele.org/
http://habele.blogspot.com/2009/04/outer-island-micronesian-students-hard.html (this has a good summary of their work)
http://habele.blogspot.com/
*Tsunami. Yap Day 2010 Celebrations were on March 1st and 2nd. The day before, us PCVs received a warning that a tsunami was going to try to crash the party, which is the biggest cultural to-do here on the island (lots of local foods, dance, and dress). But what with all the prayers and support from family and friends heading our way, I guess the tsunami realized that it really wasn't on the guest list. Thank you for your concern and support.
*Potholes. Driving to work in America, day in day out, one comes to know the road traversed with its few rough patches and occasional potholes. Here in Yap, one comes to know the occasional smooth parts of the road otherwise bedecked by the ubiquitous expanses of potholes.
*Public Transportation. Here in Yap, you don't get stuck behind school buses. They get stuck behind you, speeding and veering into the other lane to pass in a very un-Micronesian hurry. (I'm glad I don't have to take the bus.)
*Chef Boyardee. When I first came to Yap, I was worried about my diet suffering from my "favorite canned meat." Now, I love Chef Boyardee and it's enriched noodles. Let's just say I've been flexible and come a long way from my vegetarianism and Royal River Natural Foods. Damn, I had it good.
*Nature vs. Nissan. When I was in America, I used to feel exposed to the elements when driving through heavy rain in a car (even in my trusty Buick Buelah who never steered me wrong). Now, I feel more 'battened down,' so to say, in a car than most anywhere else (esp. my host father's Nissan company truck). Most life is conducted outside here, and even the inside feels outside in many regards. Ants, slat windows, humidity. It's just interesting to consider how much our modern 'amenities,' like cars and windows, separate us from the natural world. Here, whether we like it or not, the natural world is going to have its way, so we have things that crawl, unsealed windows, and fuzzy layers of mold on things. But we also know our food comes from the land we work and the sun rises and sets over the water that defines our island life. That's not something we want to keep out. Ants? Maybe. But feeling connected to the natural world? Nope.
*Peanuts. My host brother Lindsey was reading a story problem from his math book about a girl eating peanuts at a baseball game. I started to tell him how cool it was to eat peanuts at a baseball game 'cause you can throw the shells on the ground. I caught myself, though, because I realized that what was novel or cool about this to me is just run of the mill for Lindsey. We throw food on the ground all the time here. Our 'kitchen' and 'dining room' are outside under a tin 'beranta' and the ground is our floor. Our trash compactors and vacuums are covered in fur and have four legs. Lindsey wanted me to finish what I was saying, so I struggled to explain that in America, where we cook and eat are inside, so we don't go around throwing or spitting fishbones on the floor. Weird.
In other, much less pleasant news, I made the discovery this weekend that I have intestinal worm(s). It's nothing serious and I am experiencing no symptoms, but I'm still taking the necessary medicine and going to get some bloodwork done to be sure.
In other, much MORE pleasant news, fellow Yapese PCVs Laura, Kanani, and I had a thoroughly delightful belated birthday celebration for Laura this weekend where nothing seemed to work out the way we planned and it was all for the better.
I'm not sure when the next ship will leave, but I am very happy to be here now.
Gareteli gai sa gashigeshige gemaase (really, thank you all so very much) for your support and love.
Sa ila, remaweshe (bye bye, my dears) - Emily LeGasugulmal :-D
PS - THANK YOU so much for all the wonderful care packages. At this point, I have enough yummy and delectable supplies to last me for quite some time. So I'd like to respectfully alter my request for care packages to the simple gift of correspondence. Again, thanks everyone SO MUCH. (Of course, little things here and there will always be appreciated, but I've got a happy collection of goodies already. I can always use notes and letters connecting me to you - they never go bad and the rats don't eat them :-D! Peace and love, emily)
As you can see from this post, I did not get on the plane on Monday. The plane, however, did leave with both Porter and Gita safely aboard. As for me, I simply was not ready.
But I want to go back. I wasn’t ready when the plane took off, but I was close. The startling change of schedule took the rug out from under me. It was a very hard decision not to get on that plane (the hardest I’ve ever made, actually). It could have been a cop out, an excuse not to go back to Woleai, in which case I should have felt relief. But instead of being relieved, it broke my heart to not get on the plane.
Which is why I asked for the chance to return to Woleai. And it never hurts to ask. I now have both the support of Regina, our fabulous friend and PA, and Kevin, the PC Country Director, to return to Woleai on the next ship. The next ship may be a month away (as is intended), or it may be more. It’s a gamble, but I have some cards to play.
My experience in Falalus has been extremely challenging, but like a runner nursing a sprain, I just need time to heal and regain my strength. In a way, Peace Corps Volunteers are like marathon runners. We’re in it for the long run and will face lots of struggles along the way. Whether it’s 26 miles or 26 months, if we don’t take the time to mend and regain our strength, our minor (and major) sprains will only lead to painful breaks that will bench us in the long run. In less than a week, I felt like I was on the mend and then suddenly told that the big race was moved to tomorrow. But I have started the race and I’ve worked hard for the miles I’ve logged. It’s exhausted me, bruised me, sprained me, but not broken me. I want to finish this race, which is why I am grateful for the chance to return to Woleai and the time now to prepare.
So now I am looking forward to my time here as a resource trip. I can use this ‘one stitch in time’ now to start working on a number projects that will enhance my work on Falalus. I plan on gathering the resources, contacts, and materials that I simply cannot while at site in Woleai. I'll be talking to the Dept. of Ed, the EPA, the Dept. of Health, and the Yap Women's Association, just to name a few. If you have any TESOL resources, send them my way. There is also a great need for a library on Woleai, so I will use my time in Yap to research and gather resources.
One of the best resources available to me here is contact with YOU - my family and friends. So I am elated to have the time to communicate with you over the next unknown expanse of time. I especially want to thank you for your infinite support that has given me strength and fed my heart. I most especially need to thank my friend Babs, whose providentially-timed email reminded me to listen to my deep heart and to always give myself options.
There is the expression that when God closes a door, He opens another (...or a window, or a box of Girl Scout cookies, based on who you ask). As for me, when the plane door closed on Monday, my heart was opened and glad to be at the center of my life.
Oh, and don't worry, my turtle-sitter's contract is open-ended :-)
There has been a sudden change of plans and I am leaving this Monday. Training has been bumped up due to the ship leaving today. No, I am not going on the ship...yet. In an unexpected turn of events, we Woleaians will catch a plan on Monday out to Fais (an outer island) where we will meet this ship and then head out to Woleai (over 2-3 days).
I'm not sure if I am ready to head back out, but my stuff is on the ship and training has commnenced. I am very bummed not to have more time to communicate with more people, but I am hoping to be a more intentional letter writer in my time on island. I should be in again around the end of May/June. So soon and so far away at the same time.
A HUGE thank you for all the support I've received while being here. I received TEN (!!!) packages from family and friends yesterday, just in time to open them, be in awe at how generous and wonderful you all are, and then pack them up to go on the ship. As far as future packages and mail, it all depends on when the ship goes out. I have received PLENTY to tie me over for some time, so please don't feel the need to go over board. Honestly, I'm stunned at your generosity. Thank you.
I'm still a bit shell shocked by the whole sudden change in plans, so forgive me in my reeling state if I am forgetting something major. But rest assured that I will think of you often and keep you in my heart over the next few months, in all its ebbs and flows.
Wish me peace and luck!
emily
